Na Sceirí · Co. Dublin
Twelve pubs, two windmills, five islands. Skerries has always been its own thing.
Skerries is the best-functioning small seaside town in north County Dublin. It has the beaches, the harbour, the pubs, a heritage site that could hold its own anywhere in Ireland, and the quiet stubbornness of a town that has always known what it is.
The mills are the thing most people don't expect. Two windmills - one with four sails, one with five, both working - and a watermill from the 13th century, all on one site with a millpond and wetlands around them. Milling has been happening on this spot since the early 12th century. You can watch flour being ground on guided tours and buy the bag on the way out.
The offshore islands are the other thing. Five of them, a short distance from shore. St Patrick's Island has a monastic ruin from the 6th century, founded in the wake of the saint's visit to the area. Rockabill - two rocks out at sea - is one of Ireland's most important tern breeding sites and is strictly off limits. The others are accessible. The harbour at low tide, with the islands sitting offshore and the mills on the hill behind you, is one of those views that makes north Dublin feel like somewhere people might actually want to go.
Don't come on a summer bank holiday weekend if you mind a queue. Come on a Wednesday in May and the whole place is yours.